But why can't you take out the wall? Nyla - you can do a lot for your architect by building a couple of ideabooks here with images of exteriors that you love. Take a tablet to the meeting and show the images. Take your husband through the images so you can hear his likes and dislikes too - he may not care, but you don't want him shooting your ideas down in the meeting.
Any good architect would love that you already knew susanka and had read some of her work. Don't settle - if you can see it could be better - it is okay to tinker with it and bring back your own ideas.
Great architects get into a sort of collaboration with clients - most of them are visual, so bring them images to explain what you love and you will get a better result. When you start the first meeting this way, he will be relieved that you are working to communicate with shorthand. A technical vocabulary means we hear certain words in a different way than the layperson - pictures cut through all that. When he describes a room of a certain size - go find one IRL and walk around it.
Your architect might be great at codes and exteriors, and just okay at space planning. Or terrific at form but forget function. Ask him to extend his normal timeline for about 8 weeks to give you guys time to digest things and bring back questions and feedback at each turn.
You won't go over budget or make hubby mad then, and your architect will know up front that you will pay him to work through your ideas with you to get to the right answer for the house.
I currently have a drop in gas cook top. I am switching to either a slide in gas or induction range. I will have ventilation over this area. I was considering putting in a 2 hob induction top on my island and a gas range in the other spot. I really just want induction, but my husband isn't sold on it. So, I started to think that putting a 2 hob on my island would be a better idea with a downdraft.
However, I'm not willing to give up that much space for this idea. I know that I can always put the two hob on the gas range and use that ventilation, but this isn't what I think will work for me day to day. I saw Bertazzoni gas and induction combo, but I really don't think it looks nice. I also don't think I would use the griddle at all. Thanks Joansews4u.
Indeed I am not small. I see the wisdom in proportionality, so I'll just have to make some judgments on my own. Thanks all for some good suggestions. KyBell, If I take in the inseam as you suggest, should I taper the back center seam all the way to the crotch, or just the 5 to 6 inches that my book recommends?
Thanks again. Thanks, Joan I've spent the last two days in the yard raking all the gravel back from where the snowplow deposited it to the drive where it belongs. Well I'm sure that's no news to you. Good Luck! Related Stories. Peterson Garden Design. If only trees and squirrels gather in your front yard, you're missing out on valuable socializing space. Here's how to remedy that. With unexpected upholstery, antique sofas can live happily in modern interiors.
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These ideas can help. They also have extra seam allowances in the back rise so that the pants can be let out by 2 inches. You can see below where the old stitching lines were compared to the new line of stitching. Today, I took in the waist on some casual pants. Though this tutorial shows you how I made the waist smaller in casual pants, you can follow the same process for letting out the waist in proper trousers as well.
I recommend that you have successfully sewn a couple of garments before trying this alteration. First, start picking out the seam along the waistband. Turn the pants inside out and place one leg inside of the other. This will give you the best access to the back rise seam.
Open up the waistband and press the back rise seam flat. I took these in a total of 2 in. My line in 1 in. The back pockets will be too close together and you will need to make more alterations to keep the fit and proportions correct. This is important: baste the waistband section before stitching!
Let me show you why. This is the first time I basted pardon the blur …the seams did not line up properly and the finished alteration would have looked very unprofessional. I took it out and tried again. The 2 minutes it takes to do this extra step is worth it! Next, stitch along your chalk line. I noticed that my pants had some type of heavy-duty chain stitching. Sew along the original stitching line for an inch or so when you get to the end. Make sure you backstitch where the lines of stitching meet to reinforce that spot.
Open it up to see if everything is smooth and straight. If so, you can pick out the original stitches. I decided to go ahead and cut the waistband at the fold to reduce the bulk. Press the back rise seam open. Pressing well will set the stitches and also give the seam a crisp, professional look. Reattach the belt loop. I chose to place mine to the side of the seam.
You could cover the seam, but the result will be more bulk in the seam. Reattach the tag just to the waistband facing , if you like. You can use it to help keep the waistband seams flat. To stitch the waistband back down, use a couple of pins to hold everything in place. Be careful not to stitch over the belt loop. This will hold the fabric firmly in place and shouldn't shift much.
Wright, thanks for taking a look and for commenting. Believe me it is not a hard job. Once you have done one pair it will only get easier. Thanks for taking a look and I promise it is as easy as 1 to My girlfriend used to do the same as you, she would hunt around for a pant style from one company then keep on buying the same pants over and over in every color possible for each season. I say it is less hassle to just take them in but I have often wondered why waist bands go up in 2" gradiations - when people certainly don't.
I hate sewing, so usually just keep trying on trousers until I find some that fit. When I come across a pair that truly fits, I often buy 2 colours. I'm always glad when you come for a visit. Hope you're well. Sorry about the delay in answering your comment. I was away from home with no internet connection. Thanks for taking a look and for commenting. Actually it really is not hard especially men's pants.
I will add some pictures to the hub soon as I have a few pair to fix. I would think this takes a certain amount of sewing knowledge to achieve great results. I take all clothes to a local shop. She does a good business out of her home. I like to sew but as with most things I lost my machine in the flood. I have a friend who has always this kind of a problem.
The hips part fit but the waist doesn't. So she often has to repair it. Thanks Zsuzsy for the helpful tip. I know what you're saying. I've dealt with men as customers for many years and most of you seem to think if the pants stay up then they're good enough. But I can guarantee that if you find a pair of pants that really fit just perfect you will not want to wear any other type anymore.
Thanks for coming for a visit. That is the problem with pant companies not cutting women's pants the same way as they do mens. I will make a couple photographs in the next couple of days of the waistband and add them to this hub. Then, sew them back into place after you replace the waistband. Take out the stitching from the top edge of the waistband and from the center of the seat. Carefully cut the stitching on the top edge of the waistband along the same length where you removed the two rows of waistband stitching.
Separate the two layers of the waistband. Use a seam ripper to take out the row of stitching on the inside of the jeans from the waistband down to about 1 inch 2. Remove the corresponding stitching on the outside of the jeans as well to fully separate the seat of the jeans.
It may make it easier and more precise to cut the first and last stitch you would like to take out, and then pull at the loose threads to remove all the stitching in between. Fold the inner layer of the waistband and sew across it with a straight stitch. Fold the waistband across the center back line of the jeans, the midpoint between the two chalk lines.
Fold with the right sides the sides facing towards the outside of the jeans facing each other, so the folded edge is facing you. Sew where the new altered waistband meets from the top to the bottom of the waistband with a single straight stitch. Press the cut ends of the fabric with an iron so they open up on each side of the seam. Repeat the alteration with the outer waistband. Take in the outer waistband, using the inner waistband as a guide.
Fold it in the middle, sew it, then trim and press the edges. Sew the seat of the jeans back together with a single straight stitch. Pin the seat together by turning the right sides the outside of the jeans to face each other.
Pin along the chalk lines you made earlier. Sew the seat together with a single straight stitch next to the pins. It may help to take a hammer and pound the original jean seam you are sewing across in this step. This will flatten out the layers of fabric there and make it easier to sew across. If anything looks funny, use your seam ripper to take out the seams and resew that section.
Sew topstitching with a single straight stitch on the outside of your jeans. To give your altered jeans the same outward appearance again, use topstitching thread to sew from the existing stitching lines up to the waistband in two rows, matching the stitching on the rest of the jeans. Overlap a few stitches with the old stitch line to make it blend together better.
Try 3. Sew the belt loop back on with single straight stitch. Sew the top and bottom of the belt loop back onto the waistband in the center. Be sure to match the thread color of the other belt loops. It may help to hammer where you will sew first, since you will be sewing through many layers of denim. Method 2. Put your jeans on inside out and pinch the waist at the sides until it fits.
Turn your jeans inside out and put them on. Pinch the waistband on each side until you get the right fit in the waist. Try to pinch an equal amount on both sides so that your jeans will sit evenly after the alteration. You can secure the pinched fabric with a large safety pin to help you as you proceed to the next step. Secure the excess fabric on both sides with straight pins.
Carefully put the pins in the waistband on each side where you have pinched the fabric, as close to your waist as possible to keep the jeans snug. Be careful not to pin your finger. Keeping pinning down the sides of the jeans where you can pinch out loose fabric. Pin as far down as you would like, depending on how you would like the jeans to fit.
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