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With the right tools, and experience, a thorough wheel truing will produce a durable and strong wheel. Lateral truing is the correction of side-to-side wobbles, or lateral deviations, as the wheel spins This aspect is the most critical for bicycles with rim brakes. When truing wheels, generally begin first by correcting the lateral trueness.
Radial truing is adjusting spoke tension to correct issues of roundness. Much like any other fastener system, spokes have a range of acceptable tightness, or tension. Wheels with extremely varied spoke tension will not stay true, or straight, for very long. Additionally, wheels with spokes that are either too tight or too loose overall can cause problems. Spoke tension is best measured using a spoke tension meter tensiometer such as the Park Tool TM First, we need to hold the wheel steady as it spins.
We recommend using a truing stand. Truing stands help isolate truing problems and allow for easier and faster work when truing. The bike should be positioned so the wheel is able to spin freely.
Put the bike in a repair stand or turn it upside down. We need a stationary indicator that will help find lateral and radial deviations. A truing stand has built-in indicator fingers that can be adjusted in and out or up and down from the rim to easily identify these deviations.
If you are truing in the bike, you can make an indicator by attaching something to the frame like a zip tie. These can be moved in and out or up and down to show deviations as the wheel spins in the frame. Put one on each side of the rim. Depending how your bike is set up, you may need to get creative with your indicator placement. We increase or decrease tension by turning the nipple, or the nut of the spoke system. This is done using a spoke wrench - see Spoke Wrench Selection for more information.
This presents a good opportunity to point out a common point of confusion: looking from the outside of the rim you will turn the nipple clockwise to tighten and counterclockwise to loosen. Working on a truing stand or bicycle, however, it appears as though you are tightening by turning counterclockwise, since we perceive the nipple as upside down.
If you are just beginning to learn wheel truing, it can be helpful to take the tire off of the rim. If the nipples seem hard to turn or are creaky, put a drop of lubricant where the spoke exits the nipple and where the nipple exits the rim.
Bladed or flat spokes can twist around as the nipple turns, which can damage the spokes and work against their aerodynamic properties. To prevent this, hold the spoke in place while adjusting tension using a spoke holder such as the BSH Pliers can be used in a pinch , but you risk damage to the spoke.
If you do not see nipples at the rim or the hub, it is likely the wheel has internal nipples. Internal nipples are located under the rim strip, inside the rim, and require a special tool to get at them. These are also discussed in the article on spoke wrench selection. Install the wheel in a truing stand or bicycle frame.
Adjust your indicators so they are near the outer edge of the rim, but not touching it. Spin the wheel and slowly move the indicator towards the rim, watching for where the rim gets close to the indicator. Slowly continue moving the indicator closer until you see it lightly contact the spinning rim.
Slow the rim and stop it where the rim is touching the indicator. This area of contact is the most severe lateral deviation on this side of the rim. In fact, we will intentionally find and correct deviations from both sides. This will help maintain the current centering of the wheel. Far easier on the bike than off it, unless you have a wheel truing stand. Wonder if it will stop rubbing once the pad is not as new. Maybe it will be ok with a bit more clearance? Not had one since I switched to Shimano, but with my old Avids the pistons regularly seized.
The proper fix was piston overall haul, i. You could temporarily unseize them by working them in and out with a drop of fluid on the edges. Maybe I need an overhaul. Never had to do one before and this was running 3 pairs of Avids! Do you use the caliper alignment method recommended by Avid? Then apply the brake to centre the caliper and tighten bolts? I found this method can fail if one piston is sticky, as the caliper ends up misaligned. Seriously though if you have older Avids bin them and get Shimano.
Before you start bending the discs, worth checking for any lateral play in the wheel bearings.
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